Friday, January 6

Zero Waste Fashion - Our Definition

Zero Waste Fashion has become a "thing" in the last few years, but what does it mean exactly?  

I first read about one of the US based pioneers in the field, Timo Risannen, in an NYT article several years ago but had been unknowingly practicing a version of the concept with Jag & Nevie for awhile.  Mr. Rissanen has been teaching and writing on the subject for years now and I adore his blog.

Zero Waste dwells at the intersection of many eco friendly practices briefly outlined in a great series of articles on Seamwork Magazine's site.  Some of these concepts are mentioned below;  cutting, scraps as design elements and using previously manufactured items.

If you Google around you'll find fashion designers whom cleverly design patterns so as to cut fabric in ways that don't discard a millimeter of yardage. Holly McQuillan's work is a great example of this: 

Here she shows how to lay out pattern pieces for several garments in a very complex and effective way. 

Another part of the concept is designing with scraps from the fabric & fashion industry - my favorite example of this is Zero Waste Daniel  whom works and manufacturers in Brooklyn.

Zero Waste Fashion also includes up cycling which is where we come in. Finding beauty in a (re)useful piece of fabric from a discarded t shirt, sweater or pair of jeans is the absolute foundation of Jag & Nevie.

After using large chunks of a garment I incorporate the small leftover pieces as appliqués, fringe, patches, ribbons, what have you.  The studio is overwhelmed with bags & tubs of scraps waiting for their new incarnation;-)


I am so excited every time I find a way to salvage a special texture like sleeve ribbing or a waist band.

JEANS: HEM AND INSEAM; T SHIRTS (made into a tote bag)

In summary, Zero Waste Fashion is just as the name applies - an endless array of techniques employed to prevent, or at least delay, the shameful amount of textile refuse accumulation that is rapidly polluting our planet.  If we wear what we already own until it is beyond salvation and buy from zero waste designers we will care for Mother Nature in the most chic and responsible manner imaginable.  Thank you for doing your part.

Wednesday, December 7

Heart Warming Eco Fashion Story

So, here at 7200' in the Rocky Mountains it's been 5* for much of the last 48 hours.  We love it, but nevertheless, a little warmth in story form is warranted.  Check out this cool manufacturing business that offers a living wage (imagine!) to garment workers in Kenya.  They also provide two meals a day at the factory.  Things like this are what makes eco-fashion so important.

Happy winter;-)

Wednesday, November 2

Lots of New Up Cycled Cashmere

Happy Fall friends!  
I've been busy whipping up delicious new cashmere goodies just in time for.... snow!  
Yes, it will make it's appearance this year, but you'll be prepared with a fluffy new sweater, or perhaps a scarf to cheer yourself up.  (truth be told... I pray to the snow Goddess, but don't blame me if we get buried:-)

Here are a few the offerings so far:

Girls 12 m. to 3T
Girls 12m to 5T

Girls 3T to 8yrs 

Neutral and fabulous

Oranges and Peachy Colors



Sweater Salvation:Custom Order - send your damaged sweater for a fancy fix

Chartreuse!  Size Large

Luscious Periwinkle and Turquoise
Thank you for stopping by and I send you lovely snuggled-by-the-fireplace good vibes for the impending season.

Wednesday, August 3

Get Winter Ready with Sweater Salvation!

I know, I know, it's not cold yet, but I hate to break it to you - it will be.  Ratz.  

So... about those damaged sweaters....

Do you have a few that got chocolate syrup and marinara sauce on them?  Can't bear to toss them but can't exactly leave the house wearing them either?  

It's sweater salvation time.  I offer two appliquéd options - the simple, elegant and fun Mod Posie and the complicated, spectacular, studded Frou-Frou Posie.  Which do you prefer?

Mod Posie:

On Etsy Here 

The Frou-Frou Posie:
On Etsy Here

Send 'em on over.  I'll breathe new life into them pronto. 

Sunday, March 27

Custom Cool - T Skirts & a Poncho

I have had the profound pleasure of making three custom garments for two very cool clients lately and I really want to share the results with you!  

A repeat client sent me a box of the most amazing collection of Star Wars T shirts you can ever imagine.  It took a few days before I was brave enough to cut them up.  

Chopping up Chewie???  Couldn't bear it.  And the Jedi mind trick, "These are not the droids you are looking for"!  Gasp.  
Black Skirt Number 1:

Gah!  Vader!    Asymmetrical draping and hemline is key to the flattering fit.

These skirts are going to Comic-Con!!

The back.
And my favorite, the Blue & Grey combo, Skirt #2:

Again, lots of angles and draping. 

In true eco fashion - the waistband was swiped from a pair of boxers:-)


I do custom skirts in this short 17" mini skirt length and a longer midi length on the Etsy site.  When you have enough skirts, send them a long and we'll collaborate on the perfect eco skirt for you! It usually takes about 14 panels for a mini and about 20 for a midi. (You can alternate solid/graphic as seen in these, or do them with all panels as slices of the graphics). I use the blank backs of shirts for the underskirt and waistbands, thus reducing fabric waste.  

Custom Order Smashing Success #3 - A rockstar Poncho:

This client sent along a stash of awesome concert T's, some of which featured her husband's band.  The "I am Your Tin God" is her own artwork for his band - how cool is that? I studded the appliques as usual and the poncho can be worn asymmetrically off shoulder or with neck line centered. I thought her color choices were brilliant and come on - Amelia Earthart + Johnny Cash - fantastic!

The back when worn symmetrically.

Amelia with studded star appliqué. 


Details are EVERYTHING.
Send me your shirts!  
(Your kids' sport shirts, Concert T's, Sports Team T's, Race T's, Travel T's - they make great wearable art - a site more stunning than a memory quilt, eh?!)

Sunday, January 10

Save That Baby! A Woolens Salvation DIY Story.

As you know, I'm a rabid Up Cycler, Recycler, DIY person, so this project will not surprise you.  I've had a gorgeous, stretch wool Ralph Lauren blazer for probably 20 years and all of the sudden it sprang a few holes.  It's such a classic and fits so well I couldn't bear to pitch it.  
The venerable Dame Vivienne Westwood wrote somewhere that she notice mending spots on the Prince of Wales wool jackets, so I thought - YES!  If it's good 'nuff for Charles, grandpa to those beautiful Wills+Kate babies, it's good enough for me.  Here it is:
The beloved Ralph.  Just curvy enough.

One of the nasty buggers.

What to do?  I chose my favorite Mod 1960s/70s bathtub no-slip sticker shapes to applique out of scraps from a brighter blue cashmere sweater.
Reducing/enlarging stencils on the printer gives you several sizes to chose from.

After I had the templates (stencils) cut out I practiced placing them on the jacket like so.  This is a very important step in making the decisions on what sizes look best and how to achieve overall visual balance.  In order to make an exciting design I added more than was required to cover the holes.


Next I ironed the cashmere onto my favorite fusible, Heat n' Bond Lightweight.  (Their heavy weight ones are too stiff and gum up sewing machine needles - don't buy them!)  Whole bolts from fabric stores or online if you appliqué a lot, as I do.   After I cut out the "posies" I began pinning them over the holes and wherever it made visual sense.  Once I was happy with the "layout" I ironed them on using a thin cotton pressing cloth so as not to burn the cashmere appliqués or the jacket fabric.  Where the seams and curves around the shoulders are I used a tailors egg-shaped pressing form to make the iron-ons conform to the shape.

The next step was to start hand sewing them on with a simple embroidery edge stitch.  A  fairly thick needle was necessary to go through the layers of fabric.

I chose heavy black embroidery floss because I thought it framed the shape well and stood out just enough from the navy jacket.
Now, a commitment caveat - this is not a 10-minute project!  I reckon it took about 5 hours to finish all of the appliquéing.  If it were possible to do them on the machine I would have, but that also wouldn't have produced the same textural, shiny effect achieved with embroidery thread.  If you want to take on an act of salvation get into your best zen mode and relax, just do it:-)


The finished blazer elicits all kinds of compliments and "Wow! You did it yourself?!" comments.  You can do it too!

Saturday, January 2

A Lesson in Longevity. Or, Trends be Damned.

The pair I wanted more than ANYTHING.  Nude, fabulous.
Confession - I came of fashion age in the 70's so consider the context but..... I've always loved a good, high-heeled clog.  This started in the earliest days of 70's platform clogs because allllll the cool girls in Southern California had them: 
 And then it moved to Candies, the ultimate slide/mule/clog.  Being a tween at the time my mother would, on no uncertain terms, allow a pair and I have pined for some version ever since.  
Candies, just to refresh your memory - - 

In the early 80s someone added furry stuff, which usually looked like a wet dog, but nary a second did my devotion waver.
I was STILL forbidden to own a pair. 

Somewhere down the clop-clop-clop road of clogs I switched allegiance to a black, closed-toe variety with dear-to-my-heart SILVER STUDS.  Of course, Prada has done them well (Miuccia being a devout 70s girl) but that has forever been above my price range, and anyway, Prada runs way too narrow for me.  So, WahhhhHHHH.    

I would fall over dead, and would look amazing en route.
H E A V E N!

I have looked and looked and looked for upwards of 20 years for the perfect pair.  No one has them just right - heels too brown, too bleached pine like above, brass not silver studs, gold not silver studs, $1200, brown leather, too Hasbeens, heel too low.... you get the picture.

Ta-DAAAAA!  The perfect pair!

 Here are my less-than lovely pics - I was so excited to share I couldn't wait another minute to snap them better:-(  Get 'em quick on - link above.
Ok, so they're calling them a "mule" - NOT flattering, but, who cares? 

Wrappy, strappy moto style perfection
 So there, I have them, a 20+-year-old dream come true!  It happens, don't give up the fashionfaith. Ever.
The lesson here, since that's what we started with, is.... When you love something, you love it; it doesn't matter which decade you buy/wear/find/revive it - it's YOU.  Trends be damned, dammit.  After all, this is 2016 - Candie's was 1978, and and look how long that style has lasted?   
#candies #prada #pradaclog #trendslast #wearwhateverthehellyouwant #wearwhatyoulove